Interview - Leeyong Soo Part 1

I met the talented Leeyong at Cecylia's Bloggerversary Celebration. I was amazed when she told me she had made the beautiful hot pink dress dress she was wearing out of a scarf she bought from an op-shop! 

It turns out making clothes and accessories from op-shop buys was only one of Leeyong's many talents. Currently a senior writer for Peppermint magazine, Leeyong has previously worked for Vogue Nippon, designed her own label called Fourth Daughter and started a blog called Style Wilderness which focuses on sustainable fashion, documenting Leeyong's many creative projects.

I was lucky enough to interview Leeyong to learn more about her varied experiences in the fashion industry.

1. Although never formally studying fashion, you have worked for Vogue Nippon and Peppermint Magazine, started your own label Fourth Daughter and have a successful fashion blog. What influenced your decision to pursue a career in the notoriously competitive fashion industry?

I always wanted to be a fashion designer when I was younger, and would sketch designs and spend ages looking through fashion magazines – I just love fashion, although I never studied it! I never dreamed I would actually get to work at Vogue but when the opportunity presented itself to me in Tokyo, I jumped at the chance (at the time I think I said something like “I’d be delighted even to clean the toilets at Vogue”!!)

2. You worked for Vogue Nippon in the editorial department from the end of 1999 to 2007. What are some of the most memorable experiences you had during your time there?

So many… at both ends of the glamour scale. There were the times when we had to put out a shoe and handbag supplement and were up until the early hours of the morning surrounded by hundreds of bags and shoes while we worked out what would make it into the mag – and then of course all the packing up after the photo shoots for those supplements (a nightmare, as everything had to be returned in exactly the bag it came in, items had to be checked off lists, measurements had to be taken, press contact numbers confirmed, etc – all inevitably after more than 12 hours shooting in a studio). Then there were the times when we  went to huge parties and met celebrities, such as Dita von Teese (we all went out to dinner and I got to swap op-shopping stories with her – she loves a bargain too!); Isabella Blow, who I looked after on her trip to Tokyo – she had to take taxis everywhere because her hats wouldn’t fit on public transport, not that she would travel by public transport anyway; Anna Dello Russo, who singled me out in an editorial meeting full of staff wearing top brands to compliment me on my earrings (which cost something like $1 – yes, I was extremely happy about that compliment!); the Hilton sisters and Victoria Beckham… and those were just the times in Tokyo itself. I also got to travel to overseas fashion shows, which I won’t start talking about because I could go on about them forever.

3. You are currently working as a senior writer for Peppermint Magazine. How did your time in Japan influence your work at Peppermint and other fashion projects you are currently undertaking, and plan to undertake?

Despite all the celebs and events at Vogue, the highlight of my time there was organising a Fair Trade project with a company called People Tree. I got four international designers to donate patterns for garments, which were then manufactured by People Tree’s Fair Trade groups in India and Bangladesh. These garments were then sold at Isetan, a major department store in Japan, as well as People Tree stores in Tokyo and the UK and online. We also got top models to model the outfits for a 6-page story in Vogue. I think it was probably the first time major designers had collaborated with Fair Trade producers, and almost certainly the first time it had been done through a major fashion magazine. It was great to be able to spread the message about sustainable fashion to people who wouldn’t necessarily be interested normally. I’ve carried that on since coming back to Melbourne, but Peppermint magazine is a bit different in that it is aimed at girls/women who are interested in sustainability, so everything that I do for Peppermint has that focus.

As to other ways my time in Japan influences my work in fashion, well, I was working at one of the biggest fashion magazines in the world when I was there but certainly was not getting the biggest pay packet in the world, so while I wanted to look the part, I couldn’t go and buy designer fashion every day. I’d always made my own clothes, but I became more creative  and resourceful with my designs, and that has continued since returning to Melbourne.

4. You are passionate about sustainable fashion and on your blog Style Wilderness, feature a lot of secondhand garments you have re-worked. How can adopting sustainable fashion benefit consumers?

Where do I start? It depends what sort of sustainable fashion you mean, as sustainability is very broad and can mean recycled clothing or new garments made ethically from sustainable materials, for example. My take on it is as much about cost as anything – I shop at op shops most of the time and rework what I have bought there, which means some of my outfits cost under $20 (and some even less than that). Of course there is also the bonus of having a unique garment – none of that chain store stuff! Plus, if you do alter a garment, you get that unbeatable creative buzz.

5. You have worked in both the Japanese and Australian fashion industries. How do these industries differ, and what do you believe the Australian fashion industry could learn from the Japanese fashion industry?

The Japanese fashion industry is just huge because the market is so much bigger. Trends catch on a lot quicker and are a lot more visible in Japan – not just fashion, but foods and all sorts of other products too. I’m not really sure what our industry could learn from Japan’s because Australia is so different in terms of population numbers and density, and our spending is so different too. Whereas most Australians buy a car and a house during their lives, I would say most Japanese don’t. They also can’t take holidays for long stretches of time so there’s not much point saving up for that either. This is why they tend to spend so much more of their income on fashion, whereas Australians are more limited in that regard.

Stay tuned for Part 2 of this feature!

Check out some of Leeyong's beautiful creations:

Images courtesy of http://stylewilderness.blogspot.com

Interview - Neo Dia Part 2

In Part 1 of my interview, we heard about Becky and Gavin's experiences starting up their label. In Part 2, we learn more about their business and what is coming up for Neo Dia.

6. In the past few years, a lot of new and established labels have had to stop designing. The retail industry is struggling and it’s difficult to break in as a new label. What support would you like to see from the industry and government for up-and-coming designers?

Mentorship, grants, small business seminars. Most people in this industry are extremely creative and lack in the business management side of the label. When starting a label many young designers have the skills and talent but are unsure about dealing with investing and business. Unfortunately, some make big investment mistakes and i think this is the area up-and-coming designers need the most support.

7. Having an online presence has become common for designers when promoting their label. You already have a Facebook page, how else are you planning on using different media to engage with consumers and promote your brand?

An online presence is extremely important in our industry, as it allows us to present our label to the world at the touch of a button! Even though we have a website for our label, www.neodialabel.com, it is definitely our Facebook page which gets the most clicks! As well as it is the easiest way to connect with our fans. It's crazy to think that we were actually discovered by Vogue Italia and Modefabriek through our facebook!

In regards to other media we might use, we would love to do some “guerrilla” marketing which would be a lot of fun to execute.

8. You use a range of beautiful fabrics for your designs. As an up-and-coming label, what are some of the challenges of sourcing materials, without pushing the costs of your pieces up?

The use of high quality fabrics are extremely important to us and a core element of our label aesthetic. It is a reality that this places our product at the higher price spectrum of the industry. However, we believe that our customer is willing to spend that little bit extra on quality for a beautifully crafted garment. In return, we always make sure that our fabrics are of the highest quality and source gorgeous European fabrics to make sure that our customer loves the investment in our garments.

9. Who would you most like to see in Neo Dia and why?

We would love to see Cate Blanchett and Daphne Guinness in our ready-to-wear but we would kill to create an Avant-Garde piece for Lady Gaga. These women are huge advocates for unique fashion and have a bold and exciting style and it is this confidence which we believe is very true of a "Neo Dia Woman".

10. What’s next for Neo Dia?

We're in the throws of the initial design and development phase of our next collection. We've got a few exciting opportunities coming up in the next few months with LMFF and more international press. Ultimately we really want to keep the label building and focusing on each collection and building and experimenting with art and fashion!

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Thank you to the talented Becky and Gavin for taking the time to answer my questions! Neo Dia has an amazing future ahead of it and I wish you both all the best. 

Visit Neo Dia's website here.

Check out Neo Dia's Facebook page here.

Check out Neo Dia's amazing Lucid Construct collection:

Images courtesy of http://neodialabel.com and http://allaboutthestyle.blogspot.com

Interview - Neo Dia Part 1

Neo Dia is an up-and-coming label doing amazing things not only with material, but on the Australian and international fashion scene.

Started by RMIT graduates Becky Chua and Gavin Lowes, Neo Dia take their inspiration from art, architecture and academics. 

Neo Dia derived its name from the word "Neo" meaning "new" and "Dia" taken from the word "diametric" referring to lines and shapes. When you see Becky and Gavin's amazing designs which push the boundaries of geometry and construction, the name Neo Dia fits perfectly.

I was lucky enough to interview Becky and Gavin who have been working on their much anticipated new collection to learn more about their experiences in the fashion industry.

1.You both met when you were studying at RMIT and went on to start Neo Dia together. How has it helped having a partner in such a competitive industry?

It really makes a world of difference to have a co designer! We both push each other strive in the development of the range, as well as offer a different slant on an idea the other may not have thought of by themselves. It is also extremely comforting to have someone you trust to discuss and nut out problems as they arise. Finally, two heads and four hands are definitely a plus when there is a collection to be finished!!

2. Your designs are very unique, featuring dramatic pleats that create interesting silhouettes. How do you ensure your designs are creative enough to stand out, but are still wearable for consumers?

We spend a lot of time in the development stages of techniques that we use in the collection, such as pleating and folding. Through experimenting all the facets of shape and movement then we understand how to apply it to garments.

3. Your label has gained international recognition. You recently showed your designs at Amsterdam Fashion Week and were one of 6 Avant-Garde designers selected worldwide to show on the ‘Cutting Edge Platform’. Have you found the response to your label from the overseas’ markets different to that of the Australian market?

The response from the overseas market is quite different from the Australian market. However, when you think about it, each individuals reaction to our collection is different from the next person!

Generally, when we were in Europe, many buyers, editors and bloggers commented on how light and refined the garments and collection was.

I think that the overseas market, particularly Europe, has responded in a much bigger way to our label. For example, sponsoring us to show at Modefabriek, Amsterdam fashion week, and we have also been on the Vogue Italia website before we've even graced the pages of an Australian magazine!! I think this is partially because we're from the other side of the world and have a very unique aesthetic which they are intrigued by, and they are more inclined to take a punt on an emerging label.

Neo Dia's bright yellow cape and dress from their
Rhythmic Algorithm collection featured at the MSFW Media Launch

4. You launched your first collection Lucid Construct at the Melbourne Spring Fashion Festival in 2010. What were some of the challenges you faced presenting your first collection at the Festival?

We spent most of our effort on how we would present our label. Since we only had one shot to launch Neo Dia, we wanted to do it right. That meant we wanted our product and look book to be of the highest quality. We want to that our amazing stylist Jam Baylon, for helping us achieve amazing photoshoots which ultimately help us to stand out and to be taken seriously by many industry giants.

5. Fashion is a competitive industry. What are some of the business challenges you have faced starting a label?

When starting a label, there are so many things to think about regarding business. Do I invest my time and money in a website, manufacturing, advertising, or do I delegate to an agent and consultants, etc. I think that most challenging part about business is knowing what to do first and what you can think about later. We have been very blessed to have an industry mentor whom we can ask questions in the moments when we are overwhelmed, but also when we're not doing something that we should be!

Stay tuned for Part 2 of this interview!

Check out the beautiful garments from the Neo Dia Rhythmic Algorithm collection, which was inspired by music.

Images courtesy of http://neodialabel.com, Neo Dia and www.twitter.com

Made You Look! - The Art of Window Dressing

Daphne Guinness in the windows for Barney's

As a consumer, I've never thought much about how much effort goes into dressing a window however, with online retailing becoming more and more popular, there is increasing pressure on bricks and mortar retailers to attract customers into their stores. Have you stopped to think about what catches your eye when you're walking down the street? Is it a certain colour, shape, object? There are many techniques shops can use to catch the attention of passersby.

Unsurprisingly, there is a science behind the art of window dressing. Different colours are used to elicit different emotions from consumers. Hot pink suggests youthfulness, red is eye catching and usually associated with something passionate or a safe, blue promotes calmness, yellows and light pinks are feminine, the list goes on. Even the placement of products are important, with objects placed at eye level perceived as more important by viewers.

General Pants' controversial Ksubi campaign

Even shapes can influence consumers. Curvy lines suggest something natural and organic whilst square and rectangular shapes suggest stability. Strong diagonal lines are dynamic and are linked to movement.

Surprisingly mannequins can even influence a consumers perception of clothing. I always wondered why headless mannequins were used by stores. It turns out, they allow viewers to more easily imagine the clothes on themselves! 

Australian stores are taking the initiative to create more interesting and engaging window displays. General Pants' recent provocative window for Ksubi's Sex! and Fashion campaign had to be censored so as to not offend young viewers. As the saying goes, any publicity is good publicity so I don't think General Pants were complaining about the media coverage the display got. 

Australian pyjama king Peter Alexander knows the importance of window displays. Each display is planned six months in advance, with campaigns such a hit with customers that they buy the props after the campaign's over.

Overseas, retailers have mastered the art of window dressing, many employing local artists to assist with the design process. Barney's and Topshop have taken window dressing to a whole new level. Earlier this year socialite Daphne Guinness prepared for the Met Gala in the windows of Barney's. The adjacent windows were filled with stunning pieces from her collection from the late Isabella Blow. To promote her new Topshop collection, Kate Moss posed in the window for Topshop bringing passing traffic to a halt.

So next time you're out shopping, take the time to look at the window displays and think about what grabs your eye!

Check out some of the most interesting displays from around the world:

The amazing Bergdorf Goodman holiday window

Interesting use of an ostrich in the Louis Vuitton window

Calvin Klein's suspended mannequin display

Hermès' creepily interesting display

Barney's window display designed by artist Dennis McNett

Chanel-Kubricks window display in Nippon

Lanvin's Paris windows using fans to bring the clothes to life

The Hermès window display in Tokyo design by Japanese designer Tokujin Yoshioka.
The installation used cleverly timed videos of women and hidden fans to create the perception that the women were blowing iconic Hermès scarves. 

These many surveillance cameras would make anyone
think twice before trying to steal these Louis Vuitton bags.

The Calvin Klein Collection store in New York
featured a display of some of the world's most famous couples.

Post-It Pop Art in the window of Berdorf Goodman 

Apple for iPod Hi-Fi

Takashi Murakami wrapped the Louis Vuitton store in its signature 33 colours for the holiday season

The beautiful floral display in Le Printemps

Images courtesy of http://style.com, http://stlyenews.peoplestylewatch.com, http://vickilovesclothes.blogspot.com, http://ournipponjourney.blogspot.com, http://modernmet.com, http://illawarranmercury.com.au, http://digitaljournal.com

Information sourced from Shop Til' You Drop, http://mymodernmet.com